peaches

Peach almond buttermilk cake with salted caramel gelato

Peach almond buttermilk cake

It’s peach season. Does anything else need to be said? This is the time of year to grab a juicy peach and eat it while standing over the sink while it drips all over you, or to slice one into your breakfast cereal (or try it combined with cucumber and lemon for a summery new twist), or to make into a cake that is as pretty as it is delicious.

Now, we don’t make desserts very often, because, really, nobody needs to take a simple and perfect ingredient like a peach and add sugar and butter and unbleached wheat flour to it to make it better. A ripe peach is already perfect. But every once in awhile, say once every three months or so, we veer away from simplicity and make a cake and enjoy every last crumb of it.

Ingredients:

  • 3 large peaches
  • 4 egg yolks, at room temperature
  • 2⁄3 cup buttermilk (the magic ingredient that adds tang and moisture)
  • 1½ teaspoons vanilla
  • 1 1/2 cups cake flour
  • ½ cup almond flour, plus extra for dusting the cake pan
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • ½ cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Grease and flour (with almond flour) a 9-inch cake pan.

Peel the peaches, cut in half and remove the pits, and chop coarsely. You want pieces that hold their integrity. If you chop the peaches too small, you’ll end up with mush.

Remove about 1/3 of the chopped peaches to serve with the finished cake and refrigerate until ready to serve. Set the others aside.

Measure out all the buttermilk, and then use a ¼ cup measure to remove the amount you’ll need first. (Otherwise, you’ll get stuck figuring out the math for what 2/3 cup of buttermilk minus ¼ cup buttermilk means, and that will take some time for most of us, and will probably also yield an incorrect result and a headache.)

Whisk together the egg yolks, ¼ cup buttermilk, and vanilla, and set aside.

Mix the dry ingredients, preferably in a standing mixer, but you can also do this by hand.

Add the butter and remaining buttermilk and beat until light in color and fluffy looking.  This will only take a couple of minutes in a stand mixer.  Prepare for some arm work if you’re beating by hand, but it won’t require a helper, as long as the butter is at room temperature.

Scrape down the sides of the mixer or bowl then add the vanilla–egg–buttermilk mixture in a few batches, mixing well after each addition.

Fold in the reserved chopped peaches by hand and pour into the prepared cake pan. (Don’t forget to lick the spoon and the bowl, one of the quiet yet deeply intense pleasures of being the cook. Share if there’s anyone around, otherwise, rejoice in your solitude.)

The prepared cake, ready for the oven.  You can see that the sides of the pan are dusted with almond flour.

Peach cake ready for cooking

Bake for 30–40 minutes or until a cake tester inserted near the center comes out clean. Be careful that the edges don’t burn, though—this is a very moist cake and the cake tester may pick up a couple of crumbs from the center. If you’re not sure, set your timer at 1-minute intervals while checking.

Place the pan on a rack to cool completely, then invert onto a plate. Lightly press the toasted almond slices onto the top of the cake.

Peach cake with almonds on top

Serve with the reserved peaches, and, if you’re feeling especially self-indulgent, ice cream. Vanilla would be fine, but we like the excuse to have a little bit of salted caramel gelato. If you serve gelato, buy the best. The cake (and you) deserve it.

P.S.  This cake is a candidate for a flourless treatment, using just almond flour in place of the cake flour.  It might be a little less light and more dense, but it would be easier on the conscience to eliminate unbleached white flour from, well, everything.

 

And here’s what a peach/cucumber breakfast looks like.  Drizzle it with a little lemon and peach balsamic vinegar if you have some.

Peach cucumber breakfast

Life. With Food.

2015-10-17 12.14.58A few months ago, a reader asked me why I had posted a tribute to my friend Jonathan on the anniversary of his death.  “It’s a food blog,” he said.  “I don’t think it’s appropriate to write about personal things on a food blog.”  When I pointed out that our tagline is “Life. With Food” he still wasn’t convinced.  So maybe we need to be clearer that this isn’t only a place for recipes and where we can delight in and show off our cooking accomplishments.  It’s also where we shine a light onto many other things that matter to us.

I grew up in New Jersey in the 1950s and 60s, in a pretty ordinary small town notable only by its proximity to the Delaware River, just two blocks from our house, and an easy drive to Philadelphia, our nearest big city.  We sometimes caught big ugly catfish in the river, but never ate them—even then, the water was brown with sludge and who knows what else.

I don’t think I knew any men—any dads—who cooked, although they would sometimes, on firefly lit summer nights, handle steaks and burgers on the backyard brick grills that they had built themselves.

Our moms did the cooking, and it was about what you would expect in suburban New Jersey in those days.  Breakfast:  cold cereal, milk, toast (white bread), orange juice.  Eggs and waffles or pancakes on the weekends.  Lunch—which I walked home for, from school, since moms didn’t work outside the home those days:  Campbell’s cream of tomato soup, peanut butter and grape jelly sandwiches (white bread) or grilled Velveeta cheese on white bread.  Supper:  spaghetti and meatballs (that was the only pasta I knew), or hot dogs and beans, sometimes fishsticks dipped in ketchup. Chicken cutlets.  I remember eating, but hating, spinach (which for some reason was seasoned with sugar) and summer squash, both watery on the plate.  Mashed potatoes.  Sloppy joes.   Jello or ice cream for dessert.

After my father died and my mother remarried, we moved to a small family farm nearby.  I had of course known in the abstract that food didn’t grow in the supermarket, but it was the farm that really brought fresh tastes home to me.  A peach picked warm from a tree in the late summer, cherries and strawberries and tomatoes and corn and, to me, the most exotic of all, asparagus and lima beans, minutes from plant to table.  I even started to like squash.

My mom’s cooking branched out, too.  She had a small vegetable garden and, for the first time ever, I tasted lettuce that wasn’t iceberg.  She began to keep bees and collect the honey—and was on call to deal with bee swarms all over our part of the state.  She experimented with recipes and turned from an average cook into a very good one.  She sometimes said that the reason she gave up smoking, after decades, wasn’t for her lungs—it was for her taste buds.

When I was about 17, just new in college, I started cooking too.  Vegetarian and macrobiotic, no surprise, it was the early 1970s—and although I eventually moved away from cooking as dogma, I retained my knife skills and the deep belief that food prepared with love would be received with love.

I eventually got married, and had a daughter and a husband who was an excellent cook.  Lots of guys were cooking by the time I reached my late 20s.  My mother and stepfather moved to the town next door, so they could share in the work and wonder of raising their granddaughter.  By this time we were in Massachusetts, just outside Boston, and there wasn’t an ingredient from any part of the world that we couldn’t get if we wanted it.

My mom and I both bought an international cookbook and began a friendly competition.  We shared our triumphs and tips and laughed with (and at) each other when we goofed up. We generally cooked for each other once a week, and talked to each other every day.  Whenever one of us traveled, and we traveled a lot, separately and together, the first question we had for each other when we got back was “what was your favorite meal?”

My mom didn’t know it for a long time, but she was an adventurer.  She was passionate about equality and justice, and questioned authority all her life.  She was a joiner, a change agent, a mentor, and a loyal friend.  We argued, of course, but only a handful of times, and we made up easily.

As my mother pulled into her late 80s, she lost interest in cooking, but not in good food.  So I, and her friends, filled her freezer with easy-to-prepare meals and joined her as she ate them.  She was strongly independent and equally sociable, so she usually had company every day, or went out to see her friends.

About a year and a half ago, my mom, who had been old in years but not in energy or spirit, started to experience fatigue.  For a young old person, this was a big shock.  There didn’t seem to be a medical reason for her tiredness—she was just fading.  She hated having to ask for help—a trait I share with her.  On January 2nd, her 90th birthday, she went into the hospital with pneumonia and then into a nursing home.  She was surrounded by friends from her Quaker community, and by her extended blended family, and, most frequently, by me.

In the months before her death in July, my mom lost her appetite.  She and I both knew that choosing not to eat was making the choice to die, and she was certain that she was ready to go.  My job was to support her, and by the time she died, which took much longer than she wanted it to, we had no unfinished business, nothing left to say.  The last thing she ate was a spoonful of lemon sherbet; the last thing she drank was a sip of lukewarm tea.  Our final conversation was about how much we would miss each other, and about death as the greatest mystery of life, and what would happen to Don Draper of “Mad Men” as he aged.  I believe her last words to me were, “Can you hand me a tissue?”

This isn’t a food blog.  It’s not just about meals and recipes, but what we learn about life and ourselves and each other when we prepare and eat food with and for the people we care about. Food is the thread, life is the theme.

2015-07-01 10.36.53

Last Supper

ThanksgivingWay back in November, we cooked a Thanksgiving meal, not for crowds of people, as we had the year before, but just for each other. It was a chance to try out some ambitious recipes and to please just ourselves. I had at first said, “no poultry,” but a trip to Whole Foods revealed some never-before-seen exotica that ended up as the basis for our meal.

There, in a freezer on the shelf nearest the floor, a place I admit I never look, we saw guinea hens. And marrow bones. And so the menu started to form in our minds. Neither of us had ever cooked a guinea hen—and we hadn’t eaten one, either. Same with the marrow bones, although we had tasted them before. So the marrow bones for the starter, the guinea hen for the main course, and we needed a side dish. No traditional Thanksgiving green beans or squash—we decided to make saag paneer, including the cheese. I am wild for cheese, and even took a course at the Boston University School of Culinary Arts, where I earned a certificate in cheese, which makes me a dairy queen, or a cheese whiz. I’d never made cheese before—it turned out to be easy, fun, and yummy.

The plan for the day, as much as there was a plan at all, was to take it very slowly, to start whenever we felt like it, and to eat whenever food was ready.

Maybe some other time I’ll write about the recipes. What was remarkable about the day wasn’t the food, which was glorious, but the conversation. It’s rare to have an entire day that can unspool at its own pace, where there isn’t a deadline or urgent errand or sense of a ticking clock and other things that must be dealt with. Even though we share a house and a kitchen, our time together is usually short and silly and then we ricochet off into our separate lives.

For the marrow bones, we chose Anthony Bourdain’s recipe from the book/web site My Last Supper. Roasted marrow bones—his choice for a last meal. At some point after we’d prepared and eaten the marrow bones and were hanging out (actually, lying down on the living room couches) while the guinea hens cooked, I asked Chip, “If you knew you were having your last meal, would you use?” His answer came fast and clear—no, he would want to be entirely present for his end.

Over the next few days, I asked this question of a few of my other friends in recovery. Pretty much everyone came to the same answer, although a few people admitted to being tempted. One friend with 28 years clean wants his clean time on his headstone, and that goal would keep him from using. Others said they had lost any cravings or desire to use.

I like to believe I would face my end with grace and presence…but I can’t be sure. I’m enough of a foodie to think that maybe it would be nice to have a glass of wine or two with my last meal…but when I think it through, I realize I’ve lost my taste for wine. Would I take something to relieve fear and anxiety? I don’t know. I hope not. Being alive, fully alive, until the moment I’m not, seems like a good death. On the other hand, I was very happy to get the epidural during childbirth…so who knows? My tolerance for physical pain is pretty high—less so for emotional pain. And after decades of reaching for a pill or a drink to get me away from emotional pain—I just don’t know how much courage or faith I’ll have, when faced with death.

Oh—what would be on my last meal menu? I don’t know exactly, but I think there would be ripe peaches and figs, rich dark chocolate, and sushi prepared by a master. Not in that order.