Life

Life. With Food.

2015-10-17 12.14.58A few months ago, a reader asked me why I had posted a tribute to my friend Jonathan on the anniversary of his death.  “It’s a food blog,” he said.  “I don’t think it’s appropriate to write about personal things on a food blog.”  When I pointed out that our tagline is “Life. With Food” he still wasn’t convinced.  So maybe we need to be clearer that this isn’t only a place for recipes and where we can delight in and show off our cooking accomplishments.  It’s also where we shine a light onto many other things that matter to us.

I grew up in New Jersey in the 1950s and 60s, in a pretty ordinary small town notable only by its proximity to the Delaware River, just two blocks from our house, and an easy drive to Philadelphia, our nearest big city.  We sometimes caught big ugly catfish in the river, but never ate them—even then, the water was brown with sludge and who knows what else.

I don’t think I knew any men—any dads—who cooked, although they would sometimes, on firefly lit summer nights, handle steaks and burgers on the backyard brick grills that they had built themselves.

Our moms did the cooking, and it was about what you would expect in suburban New Jersey in those days.  Breakfast:  cold cereal, milk, toast (white bread), orange juice.  Eggs and waffles or pancakes on the weekends.  Lunch—which I walked home for, from school, since moms didn’t work outside the home those days:  Campbell’s cream of tomato soup, peanut butter and grape jelly sandwiches (white bread) or grilled Velveeta cheese on white bread.  Supper:  spaghetti and meatballs (that was the only pasta I knew), or hot dogs and beans, sometimes fishsticks dipped in ketchup. Chicken cutlets.  I remember eating, but hating, spinach (which for some reason was seasoned with sugar) and summer squash, both watery on the plate.  Mashed potatoes.  Sloppy joes.   Jello or ice cream for dessert.

After my father died and my mother remarried, we moved to a small family farm nearby.  I had of course known in the abstract that food didn’t grow in the supermarket, but it was the farm that really brought fresh tastes home to me.  A peach picked warm from a tree in the late summer, cherries and strawberries and tomatoes and corn and, to me, the most exotic of all, asparagus and lima beans, minutes from plant to table.  I even started to like squash.

My mom’s cooking branched out, too.  She had a small vegetable garden and, for the first time ever, I tasted lettuce that wasn’t iceberg.  She began to keep bees and collect the honey—and was on call to deal with bee swarms all over our part of the state.  She experimented with recipes and turned from an average cook into a very good one.  She sometimes said that the reason she gave up smoking, after decades, wasn’t for her lungs—it was for her taste buds.

When I was about 17, just new in college, I started cooking too.  Vegetarian and macrobiotic, no surprise, it was the early 1970s—and although I eventually moved away from cooking as dogma, I retained my knife skills and the deep belief that food prepared with love would be received with love.

I eventually got married, and had a daughter and a husband who was an excellent cook.  Lots of guys were cooking by the time I reached my late 20s.  My mother and stepfather moved to the town next door, so they could share in the work and wonder of raising their granddaughter.  By this time we were in Massachusetts, just outside Boston, and there wasn’t an ingredient from any part of the world that we couldn’t get if we wanted it.

My mom and I both bought an international cookbook and began a friendly competition.  We shared our triumphs and tips and laughed with (and at) each other when we goofed up. We generally cooked for each other once a week, and talked to each other every day.  Whenever one of us traveled, and we traveled a lot, separately and together, the first question we had for each other when we got back was “what was your favorite meal?”

My mom didn’t know it for a long time, but she was an adventurer.  She was passionate about equality and justice, and questioned authority all her life.  She was a joiner, a change agent, a mentor, and a loyal friend.  We argued, of course, but only a handful of times, and we made up easily.

As my mother pulled into her late 80s, she lost interest in cooking, but not in good food.  So I, and her friends, filled her freezer with easy-to-prepare meals and joined her as she ate them.  She was strongly independent and equally sociable, so she usually had company every day, or went out to see her friends.

About a year and a half ago, my mom, who had been old in years but not in energy or spirit, started to experience fatigue.  For a young old person, this was a big shock.  There didn’t seem to be a medical reason for her tiredness—she was just fading.  She hated having to ask for help—a trait I share with her.  On January 2nd, her 90th birthday, she went into the hospital with pneumonia and then into a nursing home.  She was surrounded by friends from her Quaker community, and by her extended blended family, and, most frequently, by me.

In the months before her death in July, my mom lost her appetite.  She and I both knew that choosing not to eat was making the choice to die, and she was certain that she was ready to go.  My job was to support her, and by the time she died, which took much longer than she wanted it to, we had no unfinished business, nothing left to say.  The last thing she ate was a spoonful of lemon sherbet; the last thing she drank was a sip of lukewarm tea.  Our final conversation was about how much we would miss each other, and about death as the greatest mystery of life, and what would happen to Don Draper of “Mad Men” as he aged.  I believe her last words to me were, “Can you hand me a tissue?”

This isn’t a food blog.  It’s not just about meals and recipes, but what we learn about life and ourselves and each other when we prepare and eat food with and for the people we care about. Food is the thread, life is the theme.

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Orange and Pomegranate Sparkly Starter Salad

2015-04-25 19.29.42We broke way out of our comfort zone about a month ago and prepared a three-course meal for 12 strangers, in an unfamiliar kitchen in the South End of Boston. We’d volunteered to be part of an online auction, and someone actually bid on us—well, to be completely honest, I volunteered and Chip, with his eternal good nature, went along. We worked with the host to create a menu, which ended up as:

Orange and Pomegranate Sparkly Starter Salad (aka Jewels on a Plate)

Grilled rack of lamb with cilantro honey sauce

Cauliflower cake with roasted red pepper sauce

Roasted asparagus with hollandaise

Poached Anjou pears in a dark chocolate sauce

Almost all of the meal was prepped in advance and finished on site, which was essential, since we had no idea what we were going to encounter. We learned from our last experience and brought EVERYTHING we thought we’d need, including salt and pepper, because you never know.

Ingredients for the salad (serves 4):

4 navel oranges

1/3 cup white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

1 hot red chili pepper, thinly sliced into rings

1/3 cup olive oil

salt & pepper

1 cup fresh arugula

1 cup feta or other goat cheese, crumbled

4 tablespoons fresh parsley

4 tablespoons pomegranate seeds

 Directions:

Peel the oranges, removing the white pith. I do this with a knife so that I can get all the pith off. (Yes, I know, pith off.)  Cut the oranges into ¼ inch thick slices.

Boil the vinegar and sugar for 3 minutes, then add the chili and cook for another few seconds, just so the pepper softens. Pour over the orange slices, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

The next day, drain the juices from the oranges into a bowl. Whisk the oil into the juices and add salt and pepper to taste.

Assemble the salad, starting with ¼ cup of arugula. Then layer the oranges over the top, and add the cheese. Top with parsley, and pomegranate seeds, and drizzle the dressing over the top.

The dinner party was a big success—maybe there’s a boutique business there someday down the line. All I can say for now—we had a ton of fun, everyone ate every bite and asked for more, and we would have been delighted to find this meal on our plates in any restaurant. We’re getting pretty good at this.

Maybe one of the top ten (20?) most fun days I’ve ever had.

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Pears poaching, asparagus ready to cook, salads all plated.

Photo Apr 25, 7 49 33 PM

Lamb marinated overnight in cilantro and honey, flash-grilled at home, finished in the oven on location.

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Cauliflower cake.

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We stayed calm and happy the whole time.

 

 

In praise of friendship

Jon MaslowThis wonderful man, Jon Maslow, died a few months shy of his 60th birthday, 7 years ago this week.  We met in college, a tiny school in southern Vermont, where I was just about the youngest freshman, newly 17, and he was a lofty four years older, a senior.  It was like, maybe even love, at first sight.  Within minutes we knew we were soul mates.  I dated, and then lived with, Jon’s roommate.  Jon attracted all of the most beautiful women in the area with his dark grace and passion for living.  He was my first and best guy friend.

Jon made me laugh. He knew all my secrets, and I knew his. We came of age together, shared everything, and loved and respected each other. We coached and counseled each other through love affairs and marriages, and supported each other even when we didn’t approve of the inevitable bad choices and bad decisions.

I roamed with him in junkyards, looking for whatever he needed to repair his ancient Volvo.  I visited him in the winter on the farm where he lived with his friends Richard and Oliver—no electricity, no heat, no running water, but a massive wood stove kept us warm, and houseplants flowered despite the cold and dark. We often talked all night.  He peed off the porch.  I slunk around the back of the house in my boots and jeans and flannel shirt and aimed as best I could into the snow.  We walked our dogs together.  We went skinny dipping in the small ponds in our town, and in the bright enthusiasm of youth and idealistic fervor, tried to change the world by changing our corner of it.  We started a restaurant, a day care center, a political party.  We talked endlessly, read deeply, stalked wild mushrooms and owls in the forest, baked bread, argued about just about everything, gardened, complained, challenged each other, grew up.  I felt safe with him, always.

His letters from South and Central America were long, insightful, silly, and written in beautiful calligraphy.  His house and garden in New Jersey were messy, crammed full of oddities he’d picked up from great distances and around the corner.  The books he wrote—The Owl Papers; Bird of Life, Bird of Death; Sacred Horses; Torrid Zone; Footsteps in the Jungle—opened up my world, and I was thrilled that he chose to rest in my company between his voyages.

In our one, and only, attempt at becoming lovers, we ended up laughing so hard we simply gave up—makes sense, in hindsight—we had a different kind of chemistry.  I loved to look at him and to hear him talk—of course I did, look at that face!  He’d read Mark Twain to me at night until I fell asleep, every time he came to visit. His annual calendars of adages and proverbs were the best gifts ever.  This is the one from his last year on this earth.2008

I still talk to him when something great or funny or perplexing happens.  When I get lonely for his voice, I read his letters.  Grief has no timetable, and love endures. Here’s to friendship.  Hang on to the people who get you and let them know that you love them.

Thanks, Jonathan. Without you I wouldn’t be who I am, or have all those 19th century Russian novels under my belt, or know how to make a mushroom print, or have the skills to be a lifelong friend. I miss you, wherever you are in that mysterious space/time/matter continuum.  And I still want that hat.

Hat man

 

Last Supper

ThanksgivingWay back in November, we cooked a Thanksgiving meal, not for crowds of people, as we had the year before, but just for each other. It was a chance to try out some ambitious recipes and to please just ourselves. I had at first said, “no poultry,” but a trip to Whole Foods revealed some never-before-seen exotica that ended up as the basis for our meal.

There, in a freezer on the shelf nearest the floor, a place I admit I never look, we saw guinea hens. And marrow bones. And so the menu started to form in our minds. Neither of us had ever cooked a guinea hen—and we hadn’t eaten one, either. Same with the marrow bones, although we had tasted them before. So the marrow bones for the starter, the guinea hen for the main course, and we needed a side dish. No traditional Thanksgiving green beans or squash—we decided to make saag paneer, including the cheese. I am wild for cheese, and even took a course at the Boston University School of Culinary Arts, where I earned a certificate in cheese, which makes me a dairy queen, or a cheese whiz. I’d never made cheese before—it turned out to be easy, fun, and yummy.

The plan for the day, as much as there was a plan at all, was to take it very slowly, to start whenever we felt like it, and to eat whenever food was ready.

Maybe some other time I’ll write about the recipes. What was remarkable about the day wasn’t the food, which was glorious, but the conversation. It’s rare to have an entire day that can unspool at its own pace, where there isn’t a deadline or urgent errand or sense of a ticking clock and other things that must be dealt with. Even though we share a house and a kitchen, our time together is usually short and silly and then we ricochet off into our separate lives.

For the marrow bones, we chose Anthony Bourdain’s recipe from the book/web site My Last Supper. Roasted marrow bones—his choice for a last meal. At some point after we’d prepared and eaten the marrow bones and were hanging out (actually, lying down on the living room couches) while the guinea hens cooked, I asked Chip, “If you knew you were having your last meal, would you use?” His answer came fast and clear—no, he would want to be entirely present for his end.

Over the next few days, I asked this question of a few of my other friends in recovery. Pretty much everyone came to the same answer, although a few people admitted to being tempted. One friend with 28 years clean wants his clean time on his headstone, and that goal would keep him from using. Others said they had lost any cravings or desire to use.

I like to believe I would face my end with grace and presence…but I can’t be sure. I’m enough of a foodie to think that maybe it would be nice to have a glass of wine or two with my last meal…but when I think it through, I realize I’ve lost my taste for wine. Would I take something to relieve fear and anxiety? I don’t know. I hope not. Being alive, fully alive, until the moment I’m not, seems like a good death. On the other hand, I was very happy to get the epidural during childbirth…so who knows? My tolerance for physical pain is pretty high—less so for emotional pain. And after decades of reaching for a pill or a drink to get me away from emotional pain—I just don’t know how much courage or faith I’ll have, when faced with death.

Oh—what would be on my last meal menu? I don’t know exactly, but I think there would be ripe peaches and figs, rich dark chocolate, and sushi prepared by a master. Not in that order.

 

The “I Need Help” Sandwich

Not just a sandwich

This is a sandwich, a banh mi sandwich, made by Chip, the dude of chickdudefood. It’s not even the sandwich at the heart of this story, but that one was too delicious to take a picture of.

It started like this: Chip makes an incredible, and I mean out-of-this-world BLT. It’s so amazing, and his process for making it so precise, that I wrote a poem about it…that won’t be shared here. I’ve seen him take 45 minutes to get this sandwich to a place that he deems mouth-ready. It involves getting a lot of things exactly right: the kind of bread and how it’s toasted, the amount of mayo, the seitan bacon layered just so, the peeled tomato sliced a certain way, the placement of the must-be-Boston-or-butter lettuce, the salt, the pepper, the final pinch of a secret ingredient that maybe he’ll write about some day.

Anyway, this sandwich usually gets constructed late at night when Chip gets home from work. The smells that come up from the kitchen will wake me from a sound sleep and propel me downstairs in my pjs, with pillow hair and sleepy eyes, just for the chance of a taste, or just to watch something so beautiful get made and consumed. (I know, I’m a little strange about food.) There’s been deep analysis of what makes this sandwich so great, and he thinks he knows, but again, that’s his recipe to share.

About a month ago, maybe a little more, Chip made this BLT at an actual mealtime. For himself. In every possible way I could think of, I took a sidelong approach—to see if I could get him to make one for me. I tried everything, that is, except simply asking for one. He finally turned to me, while he was peeling the tomato, and asked me if I wanted one. You know the answer.

Here’s how this ties in to the “Life” part of this blog. If I can’t ask for a sandwich, how can I ask for help? And if I can’t ask for help, how can I be fully in recovery? Because the truth is, I can’t do this alone. I do need help.

We talk a lot, my friends and I, about how hard it is to ask for help. For me, whose identity was for so long completely dependent on being perceived as strong, as self-reliant and self-sufficient, as perfect as I could be, it’s nearly impossible. My response to difficult emotions or stress or whatever has, in the past, been to isolate myself, pull the covers over my head, and drink or take something until I felt I could face the world again. Sometimes that took hours—sometimes days or weeks or months—and, by the end, I was pretty much silent, alone, miserable, and desperate.

Asking for help makes you vulnerable. Being vulnerable is insanely painful. If you’ve ever been hurt, and we all have, it takes a leap of faith to put yourself and whatever is going on—shame, guilt, confusion, sadness, anxiety—whatever it is—in front of someone else and say the words “I need help.”

It takes courage and practice—to raise my hand at meetings and at home, to share the sorrows and puzzles of my life along with the joys—stories of gratitude are easier to tell. I’m getting a little better at this, slowly, and with the support of my community. I’m slightly more likely to be able to ask for help as freely as I give it.  (Giving?  That’s simple.) I’m trying to give up the facade of strength and self-sufficiency and perfection, because they are destructive and unattainable.  I’m allowing myself to be a mess, when I’m a mess.  And it turns out that I’m surrounded by people who also struggle to ask for help, but who show me how to do it and that it’s safe and that help will be freely given to me.

So last night when Chip said there was probably one more garden tomato to be turned into an October BLT, I said, “Will you make one for me, too?” Straight out, direct, face to face, with eye contact. And so I will get what I want—my reward for asking—an out-of-this-world BLT that is, for me, more than just a sandwich.

How do you write a title for a relapse?

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I was a witness as a friend tore into a relapse last night.  I suspected this was happening–it’s happened before–but he told me only a few weeks ago that all was well.  This was obviously, and publicly, a lie.  There couldn’t be a better defined example of powerlessness than standing by while someone you care about suffers, knowing there’s absolutely nothing you can say or do that will get through to that person in that moment, or maybe ever.  I was sad and angry and scared and helpless all at once–maybe the same cluster of feelings were going on in him, who knows?

I walked away and went home, having decided to not be part of the drama this time.  Other choices, perhaps more courageous or more selfless ones, might have been to let his family know he was in bad shape, or to have driven him to a safe place.  But I was afraid of his aggressiveness and of the part of me that’s just like him,  and so I just had to get out of there.

And then came a night of remorseful dreams and a dark start to today…which I was able to deflect by writing and counting my blessings–my usual way out of morning gloom.  He and I came into a rehab program together one day apart, 14 or so months ago.  Almost immediately, he was able to see into me and was key in getting me to get honest with myself, and I’ll always love him and be grateful to him for that.  I wish it had been mutual.  I’ve reached out to him in words and actions but he’s on his own path and it’s painfully clear that right now, nothing and nobody is getting through.

After our last clash, three months ago now, which was also driven by a relapse, I decided to let him go as a friend and as a fellow traveler in recovery. But that turned out to be not so easy last night, when I could look into his eyes–this man I’ve shared so much with–and could see his face and could put my arms around him in a familiar once-meant-something hug.

I’m not proud that I recoiled.  I wish I had a sense of what is or what would have been the right thing to do.  I don’t have any answers today.